Deburring Wheel Setup: Bench Grinder vs Hand Drill

Deburring wheel setup matters because the same abrasive wheel can either create a clean professional finish or ruin a golf club if it spins too fast, grabs the head, overheats the metal, or removes more material than intended.

A full-size deburring wheel is usually mounted on a bench grinder, bench buffer, or dedicated finishing motor, but not every wheel automatically fits every “standard” grinder. Before buying, confirm the wheel diameter, width, arbor size, safe RPM rating, density, grade, guard clearance, and mounting hardware.

A hand drill or cordless drill setup is more compact, cheaper, and easier to store, especially when using small 2-inch deburring discs, bristle discs, or surface-conditioning pads. The trade-off is control. A drill setup can work for light cleanup, but it is easier to tilt, chatter, skip, or create uneven finish marks if the club is not secured properly.

This guide explains how to set up a safe deburring station for golf clubs, when to use a variable-speed bench grinder, when a hand drill makes sense, what speed mistakes to avoid, how to prevent heat discoloration, and which tools belong on a small home club-building bench. For the main wheel guide, read our deburring wheel for golf clubs article. For wheel grade selection, see our deburring wheel density guide. For restoration work, read our how to refinish a golf club head and refinishing metal golf club heads guides.

Quick Verdict

The best deburring wheel setup for most serious golf club work is a variable-speed bench grinder or bench buffer with a compatible medium nonwoven deburring wheel. Variable speed is important because too much RPM can generate heat, discolor carbon steel, load the wheel, and make it easier to remove metal too quickly.

A cordless drill setup with 2-inch deburring discs is a useful space-saving alternative for small jobs, shaft-edge cleanup, light blending, and golfers who do not have room for a full bench station. It is not as stable as a bench setup and should be used with lighter pressure, lower speed, and more frequent inspection.

The smartest rule is simple: choose stability first, use the lowest effective speed, match the wheel to the machine, keep the club moving, avoid overheating, and practice on a spare head before touching a gamer wedge or expensive iron.

Bench Grinder vs Hand Drill Deburring Setup

Setup	Best For	Main Advantage	Main Warning
Variable-speed bench grinder	Regular shaft prep, iron restoration, controlled shop work	Stable and repeatable	Wheel size, arbor, and RPM must match the machine
Bench buffer	Finishing, polishing prep, softer wheel work	Smooth, controlled finishing feel	Still needs correct wheel, guards, and safe mounting
Fixed-speed high-RPM grinder	Experienced users only	Powerful and common	Can overheat or over-cut golf clubs quickly
Cordless drill with 2-inch discs	Small shops, light cleanup, portable work	Compact and affordable	Less stable and easier to tilt or chatter
Rotary tool	Tiny areas, ferrule-adjacent detail work, careful spot cleanup	Precise access	Small tips can dig in and leave swirl marks
Hand pads only	Beginners, delicate finishes, final blending	Maximum control	Slow for real burr removal

Why Speed Matters on Golf Clubs

Golf clubs are not simple shop scrap. Irons and wedges have shaped soles, leading edges, bounce angles, faces, grooves, stamps, chrome, black finishes, ferrules, and hosel transitions. High speed can turn a small cleanup job into a permanent shape change.

When a deburring wheel spins too fast or the club is pressed too hard, friction builds quickly. On carbon steel, excessive heat can create blue, purple, brown, or straw discoloration. On chrome or dark finishes, high-speed contact can haze, lighten, or expose the base metal. Near ferrules, heat can melt or smear plastic.

Speed control gives you time to see what the wheel is doing. A slower, controlled pass is usually better for golf clubs than a fast, aggressive contact that removes metal before you can react.

The Compatibility Check Before You Buy Any Wheel

The biggest setup mistake is buying a wheel because it looks like a bench-grinder wheel without checking whether it actually fits the machine. Deburring wheels come in different diameters, widths, arbor holes, densities, abrasive grades, and maximum RPM ratings.

Before using any wheel, confirm these details:

• Diameter: The wheel must physically fit the grinder or buffer without hitting guards or tool rests.
• Width: The wheel must fit safely between the mounting hardware.
• Arbor size: The center hole must match the machine shaft or use the correct bushing.
• Maximum RPM: The wheel rating must be higher than the machine speed.
• Wheel type: Nonwoven deburring wheels are usually better for golf clubs than hard grinding wheels.
• Density and grade: Medium is usually the safest all-around starting point for golf club work.

Do not force a wheel onto a machine with the wrong arbor, missing flanges, loose bushings, or improvised adapters. If the wheel wobbles before it touches a club, the setup is not safe enough for golf club work.

Best Tools for a Golf Club Deburring Station

These tool categories cover the most practical deburring station setups for home golf club work. Each recommendation has a distinct purpose and its own rounded yellow Amazon button.

1. Variable-Speed Bench Grinder

Best for: Serious home club builders who want a stable station for deburring wheels, finishing wheels, and repeated shaft work.

A variable-speed bench grinder is the best foundation for a deburring wheel setup because it gives stability and speed control. Instead of fighting a handheld tool, the wheel stays mounted while you guide the shaft or clubhead with controlled pressure.

For golf clubs, variable speed matters more than raw power. A slower wheel lets you remove the burr, blend the sole, or satin-finish a small area without instantly heating the part or eating into the metal.

This is the best setup if you cut steel shafts regularly, restore irons, blend sole marks, or want a more professional shop workflow.

Pros

• Best overall stability for wheel work.
• Variable speed helps control heat and cutting rate.
• Useful for shaft prep, iron restoration, and polishing prep.
• Better for repeated club-building work than handheld setups.
• Allows the builder to start slow and increase only if needed.

Cons

• Costs more than a drill-disc setup.
• Needs bench space and safe mounting.
• Still can damage clubs if pressure is too heavy.
• May need correct bushings or adapters for some wheels.

Buy it if: You want the most controlled deburring station for repeated golf club repair, steel shaft prep, and iron finishing.

Avoid it if: You only need a tiny portable setup for occasional light touch-up work.

2. Medium Nonwoven Deburring Wheel

Best for: The main wheel on a compatible bench grinder, bench buffer, or finishing motor.

A medium nonwoven deburring wheel is the most practical wheel style for many golf workshop setups. Full-size wheels often come in common bench-machine sizes, but the correct wheel depends on your machine. Do not assume a 6-inch wheel automatically fits your grinder, and do not assume every grinder is safe for every wheel.

Medium density is the best first choice because it can remove burrs and blend light marks without cutting as aggressively as a coarse wheel. For final satin finishing, you can follow with a fine or very fine wheel later.

Before buying, confirm wheel diameter, wheel width, arbor size, maximum RPM, density, grade, and whether your grinder or buffer can mount it safely with proper guards and flanges.

Pros

• Best all-around wheel type for a bench station.
• Useful for steel shaft burrs and light iron restoration.
• More controlled than coarse grinding wheels.
• Good first wheel before adding fine or very fine finishing wheels.

Cons

• Needs a compatible bench grinder, buffer, or finishing motor.
• Can remove metal quickly if speed and pressure are not controlled.
• Not ideal for tight internal areas.
• Can damage grooves, faces, black finishes, or ferrules if misused.

Buy it if: You are building a proper bench deburring station and want one useful wheel for most golf club work.

Avoid it if: You do not have a safe way to mount a full-size wheel or cannot confirm arbor and RPM compatibility.

3. 2-Inch Deburring Discs for a Cordless Drill

Best for: Small-space golfers who want a compact alternative to a full bench grinder station.

Small 2-inch deburring discs, bristle discs, or surface-conditioning discs can fit into a cordless drill or drill adapter, depending on the disc system. This setup is attractive because it is portable, affordable, and easy to store.

The main limitation is control. A drill can tilt, walk, chatter, and create uneven marks if the clubhead is not clamped or the user pushes too hard. The smaller disc also creates a smaller contact patch, which can leave swirl marks or uneven blending on wide iron soles.

This setup is best for light jobs: small burrs, spot cleanup, controlled satin touch-ups, or golfers who are not ready to buy a full bench machine.

Pros

• Compact and easy to store.
• Cheaper than a full bench grinder station.
• Good for small spot cleanup and light deburring.
• Useful when bench space is limited.

Cons

• Less stable than a bench-mounted wheel.
• Easier to create swirl marks or uneven blending.
• Can grab or chatter if the club is not secured.
• Not ideal for full iron-set restoration work.

Buy it if: You need a compact deburring setup for light golf club work and do not have room for a bench grinder.

Avoid it if: You want the most stable setup for repeated shaft cutting, iron restoration, or large surface blending.

4. Drill Mandrel or Disc Adapter

Best for: Mounting small deburring discs, surface-conditioning discs, or bristle discs in a drill or rotary tool.

If you use small discs instead of a full-size wheel, the adapter matters. A poor mandrel can wobble, loosen, or make the disc run unevenly. That can create chatter marks on the clubhead and increase the chance of the tool grabbing.

Choose a mandrel or disc system that matches the disc type, drill chuck, and safe RPM range. Do not improvise with mismatched parts just because they seem to fit.

A clean drill setup should spin smoothly before it touches the club. If the disc wobbles in the air, it will not become more stable on the clubhead.

Pros

• Lets small discs work with cordless drills.
• Useful for compact home setups.
• Can support quick disc changes depending on the system.
• Important for reducing wobble and chatter.

Cons

• Wrong adapter can wobble or loosen.
• Must match disc size and attachment system.
• Still less stable than a bench-mounted setup.

Buy it if: You plan to use 2-inch deburring discs, bristle discs, or surface-conditioning discs in a cordless drill.

Avoid it if: You are using full-size wheels that belong on a bench grinder, bench buffer, or finishing motor.

5. Steel Shaft Deburring Pen

Best for: Removing the internal burr after cutting a steel golf shaft.

A bench wheel or drill disc can smooth the outside edge of a cut steel shaft, but it will not properly clean the inside rim. That is where a shaft deburring pen belongs in the station.

After butt trimming or tip trimming a steel shaft, inspect the inside edge. A sharp internal burr can snag grip tape, leave metal splinters, or make the cut end feel unfinished. A deburring pen removes that inside burr with more control than trying to force sandpaper or a wheel into the shaft.

For shaft trimming context, read our why tip trim a golf shaft guide. For shaft extension projects, see our golf shaft extension kit and golf club shaft extensions articles.

Pros

• Best tool for internal steel shaft burrs.
• Small and inexpensive.
• Complements both bench wheel and drill-disc setups.
• Useful before grip installation and shaft assembly.

Cons

• Not a clubhead restoration tool.
• Does not replace an outside-edge finishing wheel.
• Slower for repeated shaft work than a full shop setup.

Buy it if: You cut steel shafts and want the inside edge deburred properly.

Avoid it if: You are only blending iron soles and never trim steel shafts.

6. Bench Vise With Shaft Clamp or Protective Jaws

Best for: Holding shafts, heads, or test pieces safely during setup, inspection, and light hand work.

A deburring station needs more than a wheel. You also need a way to secure the workpiece during inspection, shaft cutting, hand-pad blending, and drill-disc work.

A bench vise with protective jaws or a shaft clamp helps prevent the club from moving unexpectedly. This is especially important with drill-mounted discs, because the drill itself is already less stable than a fixed bench wheel.

Do not clamp a graphite shaft, chrome head, or finished club directly in bare metal jaws. Use protective jaws, rubber clamps, or padded fixtures to avoid crushing, scratching, or marking the club.

Pros

• Improves control and safety.
• Useful for shaft trimming, gripping, ferrule work, and inspection.
• Helps prevent tool chatter during drill-disc work.
• Protective jaws reduce scratching and crushing risk.

Cons

• Requires bench space.
• Can damage shafts or heads if clamped directly.
• Not a substitute for two-hand control at the wheel.

Buy it if: You are building a more complete club repair station for shaft work, deburring, gripping, and finishing.

Avoid it if: You already have a safe padded vise setup for club repair work.

7. Safety Glasses, Dust Mask, and Shop Protection

Best for: Protecting your eyes, lungs, hands, and workspace from abrasive dust, metal particles, and wheel debris.

Safety gear is not optional in a deburring wheel setup. Wheels shed abrasive particles, steel shafts create burrs and dust, and old finishes can release residue when abraded.

Wear safety glasses before any wheel or drill-disc work. Use dust protection when sanding, deburring, or working near graphite, epoxy, chrome, old coatings, or unknown finishes. Use gloves carefully because loose gloves can catch in rotating tools.

Keep towels, sleeves, jewelry, long hair, strings, paper, solvents, and polish vapors away from spinning wheels and discs.

Pros

• Protects against metal dust and abrasive particles.
• Important for bench grinders and drill-disc setups.
• Useful for all club repair and refinishing work.
• Low cost compared with injury or contamination risk.

Cons

• Loose gloves can be dangerous near spinning wheels.
• Respiratory protection must match the material being abraded.
• Safety gear does not replace correct technique and guards.

Buy it if: You are setting up any powered deburring, sanding, polishing, or shaft-cutting station.

Avoid it if: You already own proper eye, dust, and shop safety equipment.

How to Set Up a Bench Grinder Deburring Station

A bench grinder or buffer station is the best setup when you want control, repeatability, and cleaner finishing across multiple clubs.

1. Choose a stable bench or work surface that does not wobble.
2. Mount the grinder or buffer securely according to the tool instructions.
3. Confirm the wheel diameter, width, arbor size, and safe RPM match the machine.
4. Install the deburring wheel with the correct flanges, bushings, guards, and spacing.
5. Spin the wheel without touching a club to check for wobble or vibration.
6. Set variable speed low at first, then increase only if needed.
7. Keep good lighting on the contact area.
8. Place safety glasses, dust protection, and a clean towel nearby.
9. Practice on scrap metal or an old iron head before working on a gamer club.
10. Use short, light passes and inspect the club often.

This setup is best for compatible full-size deburring wheels, steel shaft work, iron sole blending, and pre-polish finishing.

How to Set Up a Hand Drill Deburring Station

A drill setup is a practical option when space, cost, or portability matters. It works best with small discs and light pressure.

1. Choose 2-inch deburring, bristle, or surface-conditioning discs made for your adapter system.
2. Use a proper mandrel or disc holder that fits the drill chuck securely.
3. Clamp the clubhead, shaft, or test piece before using the drill whenever possible.
4. Start at low drill speed.
5. Keep the disc flat and controlled instead of tilting the edge into the metal.
6. Use lighter pressure than you would with a bench wheel.
7. Stop often to check heat, scratch pattern, and material removal.
8. Switch to hand pads near grooves, stamps, ferrules, or delicate finishes.
9. Do not chase large restoration jobs with a small disc if the finish is becoming uneven.
10. Clean away dust before polishing, gripping, or reassembly.

The drill setup is best for light touch-ups, small shops, and occasional work. It is not the best choice for restoring an entire set of irons.

Variable Speed vs Fixed Speed Grinder

A fixed-speed grinder can work, but it is less forgiving. Many grinders run faster than ideal for delicate golf club finishing, especially if the wheel is aggressive or the clubhead is carbon steel.

A variable-speed grinder lets you start slower and increase speed only when the wheel is not cutting enough. That gives better control over heat, pressure, and finish quality.

If you already own a fixed-speed grinder, use the least aggressive wheel that will do the job, apply very light pressure, keep the club moving, and stop immediately if the metal gets hot or changes color.

How to Avoid Heat Discoloration and Bluing

Heat discoloration happens when friction raises the metal temperature enough to change the surface color. On carbon steel, this can show as straw, brown, purple, or blue discoloration. On polished or plated areas, it can create haze or uneven finish changes.

To reduce heat, use lower speed, lighter pressure, short passes, and frequent inspection. Do not hold one spot against the wheel. Do not try to remove a deep gouge in one pass.

If the clubhead becomes too hot to touch comfortably, stop. Let it cool before continuing. Heat is a warning that the wheel, speed, pressure, or contact time is too aggressive.

Best Setup for Steel Shaft Burr Removal

Steel shaft deburring is one of the safest and most useful jobs for a deburring station. After cutting a steel shaft, the outer edge and inner edge both need attention.

1. Cut the steel shaft to length using the correct cutting method.
2. Inspect the outside edge for a sharp burr.
3. Use a medium deburring wheel or small disc to smooth the outside edge lightly.
4. Use a shaft deburring pen to clean the inside rim.
5. Wipe away metal dust before grip tape, ferrule work, or epoxy assembly.

Do not handle graphite shaft cuts the same way. Graphite requires careful cutting, dust control, and fiber protection.

Best Setup for Iron and Wedge Head Work

For iron and wedge heads, the deburring station should be used more carefully than it is for steel shaft ends. Clubhead shape and finish matter more.

Clean the head first, inspect under good light, and decide whether the mark is dirt, finish wear, a scratch, a nick, or a true gouge. Use hand pads before powered tools if the area is close to grooves, stamps, paint fill, or a delicate finish.

For light sole blending, a medium bench wheel is usually better than a small drill disc because it gives a broader, more even contact area. For small spot touch-ups, a drill disc can work if the head is clamped and the pressure stays light.

For scratch-specific repair, read our best golf club scratch remover and how to remove scratches from golf club irons guides.

Where Not to Use a Powered Deburring Setup

• Inside grooves.
• Aggressively across the clubface.
• On graphite shaft fibers.
• On ferrules with wheel pressure.
• On chrome if you are trying to preserve the original shine.
• On PVD, DLC, black oxide, or oil-can finishes unless you intend to alter them.
• On collectible clubs before checking value.
• On sole grinds if you do not understand how material removal affects turf interaction.

For finish-specific warnings, read our PVD finish golf clubs, how to remove chrome finish from golf clubs, and how to oil can finish a golf club guides.

Polishing After Deburring

Deburring is not always the final finish. The wheel removes burrs, blends marks, or prepares the surface. Polishing improves brightness and final appearance after the surface is already corrected.

Use metal polish only on safe polishable metal areas. Do not pack polish into grooves, ferrules, badges, or porous finishes. Do not use metal polish on dark coatings unless the finish provider says it is safe.

For polishing options, read our best metal polish for golf clubs, golf club polish, Autosol metal polish golf clubs, and can you use metal polish on golf clubs guides.

How TopGolfe Evaluates a Deburring Wheel Setup

For a deburring wheel setup, we evaluate stability before speed. A powerful grinder is not useful if it spins too fast, vibrates, has the wrong arbor, or gives the builder no control over heat and pressure.

We look at variable speed, wheel compatibility, arbor fit, guard setup, lighting, dust control, hand clearance, workpiece support, material removal rate, heat buildup, and whether the setup helps preserve club geometry.

The best station is not the biggest or fastest. It is the one that lets the builder make small, controlled, repeatable finishing passes without turning a cosmetic cleanup into a damaged club.

Common Deburring Station Mistakes

Using Too Much Speed

High speed creates heat and removes metal faster. Golf clubs usually need controlled finishing, not maximum RPM.

Assuming Any Wheel Fits Any Grinder

Not every deburring wheel fits every bench grinder. Always check diameter, width, arbor size, safe RPM, bushings, flanges, and guard clearance before mounting.

Using a Grinding Wheel Instead of a Deburring Wheel

A hard grinding wheel is too aggressive for most golf club finishing. Use nonwoven deburring or finishing wheels for controlled work.

Bad Wheel Mounting

A wheel that wobbles, vibrates, or does not fit the arbor correctly is unsafe and will leave poor finish marks.

Using a Drill Disc on an Unsecured Clubhead

A handheld drill and a loose clubhead are a bad combination. Clamp the work when possible and use light pressure.

Holding One Spot Against the Wheel

Stationary contact creates heat, dips, and uneven marks. Keep the club moving through short controlled passes.

Working the Face and Grooves Aggressively

Grooves and face texture affect spin and rules compliance. Use cleaning tools for grooves, not a powered deburring wheel.

Skipping the Practice Head

Every wheel cuts differently. Practice on scrap metal or an old iron before touching a valuable club.

What Not to Buy

Avoid buying a high-speed grinder only because it is powerful. For golf clubs, control matters more than raw speed.

Avoid full-size wheels that do not list arbor size, maximum RPM, density, grade, or intended material. Wheel compatibility is a safety issue, not a minor detail.

Avoid cheap drill-disc kits with poor mandrels that wobble. A bad adapter can make even a good disc leave chatter marks.

Avoid coarse wheels as your first setup unless you are working on low-value practice heads and understand metal removal.

Avoid using a powered setup on black finishes, chrome, grooves, ferrules, graphite, or collectible heads before testing on a spare part.

Hidden Costs to Consider

• Arbor adapters: Some wheels need bushings or adapters to fit your grinder.
• Multiple wheel grades: Medium may handle most work, but fine wheels are useful for finishing.
• Bench space: A grinder station needs a stable surface, lighting, and dust control.
• Safety gear: Eye protection, dust protection, and safe clothing matter.
• Practice heads: Learning wheel pressure on an old club is safer than starting on your gamer wedge.
• Replacement wheels and discs: Abrasives wear down and load up with metal dust over time.
• Polishing supplies: Deburring is not always the final shine stage.

Safety Notes Before Installing and Using Deburring Wheels

• Wear safety glasses before any wheel, disc, or grinder work.
• Confirm wheel size, arbor size, and maximum RPM before mounting.
• Do not use a wheel that wobbles, vibrates, cracks, or does not seat correctly.
• Keep loose sleeves, towels, jewelry, hair, gloves, and strings away from spinning wheels.
• Use light pressure and short passes.
• Do not inhale graphite dust, epoxy dust, chrome dust, metal dust, or unknown finish residue.
• Do not use powered abrasives near flammable solvents or polish vapors.
• Stop if the club gets hot, changes color, grabs, chatters, or starts changing shape.
• Practice on scrap metal or an old head before touching a valuable club.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best deburring wheel setup for golf clubs?

The best deburring wheel setup for most serious golf club work is a variable-speed bench grinder or bench buffer with a medium nonwoven deburring wheel that is correctly rated and mounted for the machine.

Is a bench grinder or hand drill better for deburring golf clubs?

A bench grinder is better for stability, repeated shaft work, and iron restoration. A hand drill with 2-inch discs is better for small spaces, light touch-ups, and portable work.

Do all deburring wheels fit a standard bench grinder?

No. Deburring wheels vary by diameter, width, arbor size, density, grade, and maximum RPM. Always check compatibility before mounting any wheel on a grinder or buffer.

Do you need a variable-speed grinder for golf clubs?

You do not absolutely need one, but a variable-speed grinder is safer and easier to control for golf club finishing. Lower speed helps reduce heat, discoloration, and accidental metal removal.

Can you use a high-speed grinder with a deburring wheel?

You can only if the wheel is rated for the grinder speed and you have experience. High speed is less forgiving on golf clubs because it can generate heat, discolor metal, and remove material quickly.

Do 2-inch deburring discs work for golf clubs?

Yes, 2-inch deburring discs can work for light golf club cleanup, especially in a cordless drill or compact setup. They are not as stable or even as a full-size bench-mounted wheel.

How do you avoid blue discoloration on carbon steel?

Use lower speed, lighter pressure, shorter passes, and frequent cooling breaks. Blue, purple, brown, or straw discoloration means the metal is getting too hot.

Can you use a deburring wheel on graphite shafts?

Do not use a normal metal deburring wheel aggressively on graphite shafts. Graphite needs proper cutting methods, dust protection, and gentle fiber-safe finishing.

What size deburring wheel should I use?

The correct wheel size depends on your machine. Many bench setups use full-size nonwoven deburring wheels, while compact drill setups use small 2-inch discs. Always match the wheel diameter, arbor, and RPM rating to the tool.

Final Recommendation

If you want the safest and most useful deburring wheel setup for golf clubs, choose a variable-speed bench grinder or bench buffer with a compatible medium nonwoven deburring wheel. That setup gives the best mix of stability, control, and repeatability for shaft work and iron finishing.

If you do not have space for a bench station, use 2-inch deburring discs with a cordless drill, a proper mandrel, and a padded vise or clamp. Keep the speed low, pressure light, and expectations realistic. It is a compact solution for small jobs, not a full replacement for a stable bench machine.

The best deburring station is not the fastest one. It is the one that helps you remove burrs, blend marks, and prepare metal while preserving the club’s grooves, sole geometry, ferrules, finish, and value.

Related Guides

• Deburring Wheel for Golf Clubs
• Deburring Wheel Density Guide
• How to Refinish a Golf Club Head
• Refinishing Metal Golf Club Heads
• Best Golf Club Scratch Remover
• How to Remove Scratches From Golf Club Irons
• How to Remove Scratches From Golf Club Shafts
• Why Tip Trim a Golf Shaft
• Golf Shaft Extension Kit
• Golf Club Shaft Extensions
• Can You Use Metal Polish on Golf Clubs?
• Best Metal Polish for Golf Clubs
• Golf Club Polish
• Autosol Metal Polish Golf Clubs
• PVD Finish Golf Clubs
• How to Remove Chrome Finish From Golf Clubs
• How to Oil Can Finish a Golf Club
• Best Golf Brush and Club Groove Cleaner